African Safari in April 2014

Jan and Ian McAvoy were coming over in their motorhome to visit us in April 2014 and while looking for things to do while they were here we came across an advert for Moroccan trips put on by a local Alhaurin el Grande company called Desert Detours. We ran the idea of visiting Morocco past the McAvoy's and they thought it sounded great so it was duly booked and paid for.

The second of April dawned and everyone was excited about embarking on an African adventure. At about 13:30 on a wet and miserable  day we headed off in convoy for Algeciras and the Tangier ferry.  The first night was spent at a service area near the port where a briefing was given by Ray and Debbie Smith, the organisers, and we met the third couple in our little group; Australians, John and Judy. Ray was going to be our guide and he would be joined by A'hammid, a Moroccan assistant, on the other side.

Day 1, Thursday 3 April

Leaving Algeciras with
Gibraltar in the distance

It was up at 05:30 in the morning and off to the ferry as it was sailing at eight o'clock, or was supposed to. It didn't actually leave until about nine thirty due to the Spanish dockworkers faffing around shuttling cars and trucks about instead of getting them loaded. That is apparently typical and the ferry never leaves on time which causes a knock on effect for the rest of the day. This was something we were not to remember again until we were waiting for the ferry back to Algeciras. Once on the ferry and en route to the port of Tangier Med the entry paperwork had to be completed which included importing our motorhomes into Morocco. We were told that we must remember to export them again when we left or else it would cause big

problems for us.

Martil Sea Front

The crossing was uneventful, the Strait of Gibraltar was flat calm and the rain had stopped for the time being. Once off the ferry and after a short stop to change some Euros into Dirhams it was on the road to Martil. Martil is a medium sized seaside town with blocks of flats along the sea front. The camp site was very basic, but that's typical of the country apparently. The toilets were of the elephant's feet style (a hole in the floor) except for the disabled cubical so everyone seemed to be using that one! Tricia and I had a wander around the town and along the sea front, it was nothing special and could have been a tourist town anywhere.

Day 2, Friday 4 April 

Chefchaouen Campsite

Ray brought us some fresh locally baked bread round for Friday breakfast so we had that with an omelette, had a briefing and set off at about 10:00 hours. The route took us into the mountains arriving at the camp site just outside the walled town of Chefchaouen at 13:30. Facilities seemed to be very slightly better here, but not much. We went for a walk after lunch with spectacular views and lots of Storks. Tomorrow it will be time to explore the town and it is promised to be interesting by Ray.

Day 3, Saturday 5 April

The Happy Campers
in Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen

A'hammid, Ray's Moroccan sidekick walked with us down through the narrow streets of blue painted houses, passable by donkeys and people only, to the centre of Chefchaouen. It is a bustling town with markets, cafés and restaurants in abundance.

Chefchaouen shop

After wandering around the streets for a couple of hours and having a bite of lunch it was back to the camp-site for the afternoon. Dinner would be in a restaurant in the town in the evening so six adults crammed into a Mercedes taxi, 2 in front 4 in the back for the, thankfully, short ride. A very nice meal of Berber tagine was enjoyed at Aladdin's Restaurant. After two nights at this site it was on to The Wilderness Site.

Chefchaouen restaurant

Day 4, Sunday 6 April

The drive towards Meknes was a bit scary, some parts of the roads not quite wide enough for us when there was oncoming traffic but we arrived safely finding a very nice "wild camping" spot near a ruined Roman city called Volubilis.

Wild camping near Volubilis

The weather a was a lot warmer now and after parking up in a clearing just past the trees we climbed a hill to see the local village. Unfortunately not much could be seen for all the prickly pear bushes surrounding the buildings but we could see Volubilis in the distance. The villagers were very friendly, speaking to us in French, one chap came and shook our hands and spoke to us. 

Sitting round the camp fire

 In the evening we had jacket potatoes round a camp fire having had a very good lunch of lamb cutlets and lamb kefta earlier. A shepherd kept watch on our group during the night as we were in a very remote area. Several flocks of sheep and goat herds passed through our midst during the evening.

Day 5, Monday 7 April

The gate to the Roman City

It is now Monday morning and we drove the short distance to the ruined city of Volubilis (Google has all the gen) for the 9:15am guided tour. The heat had certainly kicked in by now. 

The floor of a Roman villa

It was then on to Meknes for another stop. We wandered around the souk where Jan, Ian, Archie and I got seriously lost and by then the heat was suffocating, however, we did come across the tiny workshops where ironwork was being handmade, wood carving, men hand sewing beautiful djellabas and other crafts all done by hand with no regard for safety. There were numerous little stalls with a myriad of goods in amongst this rabbit warren. Eventually we emerged into the open, hot and tired so we decided to head for the camp site at Fes. This was an easy drive along the motorway to a large site which was not busy at all. As we were all tired, after setting up, we ate and had an early night.

Day 6, Tuesday 8 April

Fez royal palace

View of Fez from Borj Sud

Our tour guide for the day, Raschid, met us at 9:00am. We were driven into Fes to see the outside of the royal palace and the Jewish quarter nearby. Up the hill to Borj Sud, a fort, where we looked down on the Medina (old town).

Fez pottery

Mosaic drinking fountains

Next, to the pottery where we saw pots being made and hand painted, the ceramic tiles for mosaics being cut by hand with hammer and chisel. The end products were beautiful tables, water fountains and pots as well as tagines (sorely tempted but we didn't buy one). Then into the Medina souk with the tiny shops selling everything from camel meat to hand made wedding furniture, just amazing, in such conditions too!

Fez tannery

We were taken to a tannery where we saw the baths where the leather is tanned and dyed to be used to make lovely bags etc. The smell was awful. We were shown buildings decorated in the Moorish style, all hand carved plaster, beautifully decorated. 

Tricia and Raschid in the souk

Lunch next, of little dishes of cooked Moroccan salads, lentils, something that looked like spinach, olives, ratatouille(possibly) and others, followed by chicken tangine with almonds then fruit. 

Fez souk and camel head

Next stop was the carpets. Through a tiny doorway into a dar (house) which opened up like a tardis. We were shown many beautiful handmade carpets with all the spiel (very wearing!) the Australian couple crumpled and bought one. On to the weaving! Once again all hand m ade by the men, they do the horizontal weave while women the vertical because it needs more patience! Ha! Archie bought me a beautiful Kashmir scarf. End of tour, which we all agreed was very good.

Fez architecture

Back to the camp site for a chicken dinner cooked by A'Hammid, very good. Tomorrow, Azrou the best camp site in Morocco (according to Ray, tour leader).

Day 7, Wednesday 9 April

Left Fes about 9:30am stopped at Marjane supermarket to stock up with 50 litres water and a few other items then headed for Azrou the best camp site in Morocco, by Moroccan standards!!! 

Iframe

Breakfast stop at about 11:30am in Imouzzer Kandara for pancakes with honey, they were a bit like pikelets, OK but nothing special. The tour leaders had gone on ahead and as a result our group of 3 vans took a slight detour (!) at a roadworks near Iframe, taking us through a beautiful park area with a river. We stopped for a discussion about the route and decided to turn around. There were young Moroccan men offering the ladies rides on their beautiful horses, which were bedecked with splendid blankets and saddles, around the parkland! We all declined, surprisingly! 

Eurocamping Azrou

Back on track we drove through Iframe which is a royal town and the king likes pitched roofs so it was quite bizarre to see these Alpine looking buildings after all the flat roofed dwellings. Eventually we arrived at the camp site at about 2:00pm. 

Morning briefing,
Eurocamping Azrou

A very spacious site which is owned by a sheik from the United Arab Emirates and has poured lots of money into area for local schools, hospitals etc. After lunch I did a couple of loads of washing and just relaxed as it was very hot and we were to have a long day tomorrow. I cooked paella for dinner.

Day 8, Thursday 10 April

Snow by the roadside

Setting off at about 8:30am for a 280km drive to Source Bleue, Madkhal Meski. We passed patches of snow near the roadside and saw more in the distance topping the Mid Atlas mountains. Now the landscape changed quite rapidly and dramatically, from lush green to scrub land then red earth. Passing through the arid land we saw some camels grazing amongst the palms but weren't quick enough to get photo's. Once again we stopped off for a break for pancakes with honey, different and nicer than yesterday's.

Snow on the Mid Atlas
mountains

Because of our van size we stopped apart from the other vans and it happened to be in a bus stop where we were asked to move by a very nice young man who kept calling Archie 'my friend', he guided us across the road to a better spot then out came the carrier bag with his wares. He was selling fossils which intrigued Archie. After a bit of bartering he bought a fossil and a pretty piece of rock at a knock down price. John, the Australian in our group, who was a geologist, bought a beautiful ammonite, amongst other things.

The cycle race

The land becoming quite barren now and the low houses built with mud and straw and tiny windows. As we have seen throughout the trip there were always people walking the roads even in what seemed to us like the middle of nowhere.  

Waiting in the shade
 for the cycle race

We were stopped by the police and asked to pull into a service station as there was a cycle race coming through in twenty minutes (Moroccan time!), forty five minutes later the bikes went past and it was about twenty minutes more before the tail enders passed and we continued on our way. We drove through the Tunnel du Legionnaire and the Gorges du Ziz with it's spectacular, dramatic rock formations.  

In the bondu at Meski

Upon arriving at the Meski camp site entrance Ian, Jan, John and Judy drove down to the site while Archie went to check out access and pitches. It was decided it was not a good idea for us to go onto the site because of the steep, narrow access and the leaning palm trees so we parked opposite the restaurant outside the site entrance, a bit exposed but it was fine.

A street in Meski

That evening we had a very good meal of salad starter (washed in bottled water, of course!) brochette of beef and turkey with chips followed by fruit.

Day 9, Friday 11 April

Concrete house being
built in Meski

The morning started with a tour of the village which began at nine o'clock, the guide being a local man called Benny. He showed us around the mud and straw dwellings and the more modern concrete houses. 

Tricia in Benny's house

He took us into his home for mint tea, cookies, peanuts and bread with olive oil, (he also tried to sell us dates and olive oil, never miss a trick these people!). All very interesting. After the tour Archie and I decided to take a look at the shops on the camp site, not sure if that was a wise move! 

Benny and the girls

We discovered that our friend, Benny, also has one of the shops there and like a fly to a spider's web we were drawn in and after some PERSISTENT hard selling/bartering we came away with a pretty silver (so we are told) bracelet that started off at one thousand two hundred dirhams (roughly 120 Euros), we ended up paying three hundred and fifty dirhams (35 Euros) plus four cans of beer! The beer had to be collected by him in secret. Anyway, not sure if we got a good deal but I like the bracelet. 

Taking tea at Benny's house

Archie, Judy and John were shown around the old Kasbah (fortified town) by Benny. I opted out as it's very hot and I'm not really that keen. Archie had to remove his shoes and socks and wade across a stream to get to the Kasbah because he didn't like the look of the wobbly stepping stones. Eating out again tonight, promised couscous, meat and vegetables, sounds good to me.

The Source Bleue

Day 10, Saturday 12 April

It was planned that the group would visit the local school that the tour company sponsor, however, at the last minute it was discovered that the school had visitors and so our visit would not be possible so we set off for our desert destination. After a short drive we stopped at a view point where we took photo's of spectacular views of the oasis we had just left.

The palmery following
 the water course

Next stop, at about twelve o'clock, was Rissani, where we did a bit of shopping and had lunch, Archie and I had Moroccan pizza which is like a calzone with mince and onion filling, it was very tasty. After escaping street sellers, for the umpteenth time on the trip, we headed for Mazouga and the Erg Chebbi dunes on the edge of the Sahara, the desert proper. 

Arriving at Erg Chebbi
 in convoy

Driving into the desert

We turned off the road onto desert piste where the road turned very rough like a washboard, it was very bumpy, so much so that a cupboard flew open and out came a teapot and cosy. The road surface then changed to large pebbles which wasn't any easier. At last we reached our destination, Auberge du Sud, a fabulous hotel built to resemble a Kasbah, needless to say we parked outside the walls but were lucky enough to be allowed to use their facilities (not particularly fabulous!). Archie said he's seen worse.

Camels in front of the
 Auberge du Sud

That evening we had the most delicious meal from a huge selection of more than thirty dishes. When we arrived we saw the camels used for rides and watched a group of people riding into the dunes to watch the sun setting.

Harvey through an arch
of the Auberge du Sud

Day 11 Sunday 13 April

We set off for a camel ride of an hour and forty minutes through the sand dunes to a Berber encampment where we were to spend the night in tents. Colin and Sally, a couple of bikers who had joined our group to follow the route for a couple of days, came with Archie and I. Yousuf was our camel guide taking us through spectacular scenery to our destination. Of course the ride was very lumpy but we enjoyed it and arrived safely to be greeted with green tea and peanuts and shown our accommodation for the night which was a good sized tent with a mattress, sheets, pillows and blankets. 

Harvey in the dunes

Desert sunset

We were told by the camp staff that we had time to climb the HUGE sand dune behind the camp to watch the sun setting. The four of us set off enthusiastically, however, it wasn't long before Sally and I were beaten by the climb and sat down while the men struggled on. They didn't reach the top of the dune for the best view but, nevertheless, managed to take some stunning photos. We all wandered slowly back down to the camp. 

Camel trek

After being shown where the toilets were Archie and I decided that we would have our dinner, however, we were asked to wait for Colin and Sally as the meal was a tagine for four. Colin and Sally soon joined us and we started with Morrocan soup, followed by chicken and vegetable tagine which had aubergine, courgette and potatoes, then there was melon and orange slices to finish. 

Sunset from the dune

We were sitting in amongst a group of Moroccan students and we chatted to them whilst we were eating. Before we had begun to eat one of the students invited us to join them around the camp fire after dinner to enjoy their singing. When everyone had finished eating the students grouped around our table and sang for us. The singing was full of exuberance and happiness it was delightful. One young girl sang a solo of I'll Always Love You from the film The Bodyguard which was beautiful. 

Our accommodation
 for the night

Everyone then went to sit around the camp fire and enjoyed the rest of the evening listening to the singing and watching some lively dancing! There was also the resident Berber entertainment of singing and music, different but still good. Archie and I eventually retired to our mattress at about eleven o'clock. It was a while before we got any sleep with noise and lights and laughter all around.

Singing round the campfire

Day 12 Monday 14 April

Crawling out of bed at about a quarter to six, to be packed and ready to mount our camels at six thirty, was hard going but we managed it and enjoyed a very good cup of coffee too. 

The four wise people

The ride back to the Auberge du Sud was slightly quicker but on the way we saw the sunrise. Back at the hotel we had breakfast and then Archie had to set about replacing the broken strap on one of the LPG tanks with a couple of webbing straps obtained from Ian. After lunch we headed for the pool but several people had reserved sun loungers by placing towels on them and the occupants were no where to be seen. A couple of loungers did come free eventually and we were able to read for a little while. Dinner in the hotel was again a buffet style meal consisting of at least thirty dishes and once again it was delicious.

Day 13 Tuesday 15 April

The Qanat's from ground level

We left Auberge du Sud at nine o'clock and headed back along the N13 to Rissani but had to take a very narrow winding detour through a housing estate, nothing more than a building site, due to a protest being held in the town centre. After negotiating the many obstacles it was on to Arfoud and the N702 to Tinejdad. 

Inside a Qanat

Seeing some strange wells covering the area to the right of the road these had to be investigated and it turned out that they were part of an ingenious canal system called a Qanat that had brought water from the foot of the mountains 40Km away. In the 11^th century five tunnels had been dug parallel to each other, one each for Berber, Touareg, Arab, Bedouin, etc. and along each canal, every 20m, a well had been dug. Each well belonged to a different family and was dug to a depth of 30m (although this depth increased until it was 150m at the source). John and Archie went on a tour of the system being taken down a stairway into the underground canal itself and it could be seen disappearing into the distance in both direction with little pools of light indicating where each well was. 

Zaid's Museum and art gallery

Carrying on to Tinejdad, after the tour, we stopped to look at the market. Leaving Tinejdad, after only buying some Magnum ice-creams, and carrying on down the road to Tineghir it was off to the lunch stop at a calligraphy art gallery and museum. 

Zaid with the water clock

We were guided round the museum by Zaid who has made it his life's work in later years to preserve a natural spring and has created a wonderful oasis filled with ancient Berber artefacts. He showed us a fantastic wooden door lock and a water clock used to measure the time irrigation water was allocated to each farmer from the asequia.

Tricia at the museum

Zaid is also a skilful calligrapher and creates beautiful artwork using Arabic and Berber script depicting phrases from the Quran and philosophical works. We bought one which says “Say something nice or keep quiet”. He has one which is “Water of Life” in several languages and he wanted us to tell him what it was in our language so we have to email him with “Uisge Beatha” which is Gaelic and where the word whisky comes from. 

The spring

We set off for the camp site at Todre Gorge, Tinerhir which turned out to be one of the best sites so far. Pitches were of a good size with shaded areas and the facilities were reasonable. That evening we took our BBQ up to Ian and Jan's pitch and enjoyed our evening together. Ian and Archie sat having a wee dram after Jan and I had retired and John and Judy complained to Ray that they were kept awake until 10:30! Ray's response was "What do you expect? They're on holiday!"

Day 14 Wednesday 16 April

Crossing a stream in the palmery

Up early to walk to Todra Gorge with the group, leaving the site at about 9:00am. We walked up the road for a short while then we were hijacked by a chap from a camp site who wanted to guide us through the gorge and including a taxi back to the site for two hundred dirhams (20€), we went a short way with him, then, after giving him thirty dirhams, continued on own through the palmeria and fields of crops. In hind sight, we should have taken hin up on his offer but we had an interesting walk.

The walk through the palmery

Children tried to show us the way?! (They were a real nuisance!) Then a builder pointed us in the right direction and once again we were guided through the rest of the valley, which was quite a distance by yet another 'guide' who we felt we had to give sixty dirhams as we had become totally lost when he found us. 

Tricia and John crossing
 a larger stream

Entering Todra Gorge

We were now on the road near the gorge and after a short walk we entered the gorge, which was breathtaking. It was very busy with tourists on foot, traffic and stalls. We stayed for a little while then made our way back to a café for a drink and to ring A'Hammid about a taxi to get us back to the site. After a couple of calls a taxi turned up which was going to make two trips of three. John, Judy and I went first but due to road works the traffic was really heavy and kept stopping so the taxi driver suggested that he turned around and went back to collect the other three otherwise it was going to take a very long time to do the two trips. 

Tourist tat being
 sold in the gorge

We picked up the others and made our way back to the site through the choking dust and the mayhem. While we were doing this Ray and A'Hammid had gone to a garage and got a strap so that Archie could repair the broken one on the LPG tank. As soon as we got back Archie put some washing on while I made lunch. He was then going to do the repair but could not access Ray's tool box and he was out. Archie crashed out, exhausted. After a sleep Archie fixed the LPG strap which was no easy task.

Running repairs to Harvey

We had our evening meal at the site restaurant. We had pre-ordered the 'special' which was lamb and chicken cooked with dates, prunes and figs. Unfortunately the dish was disappointing with little meat and an abundance of fruit, much of which was left. And so to bed.....

Day 15 Thursday April 17

We left Tinerhir at a leisurely pace as the route was straight forward so Ray and A'Hammid went on ahead leaving us all to our own devices. The Australians and us left at about 9:45am, stopping briefly at the viewpoint exiting the gorge. Archie and I stopped in the town for possible food shopping but no food shops around the area. We caught up with John and Judy as they were dumping their very stinky grey water (the joys of motor homing!). 

Fatima's shop

Next stop was in the Vallee' du Dades (Valley of a Thousand Kasbah's). Ray had told us about a roadside stall that was owned by Fatima, selling locally made creams and oils. This area specialises in olive oil, argan oil and rose products so there are many such shops. Apparently, after this lady became a widow, she did not disappear and lose interest in life as most Moroccan widows do but built up a thriving business to support her family. 

Fatima and Tricia

She is a delightful person and made us most welcome, none of the 'hard sell' of which we have been become accustomed to. I bought several pots of cream and shower gel and a cobalt blue scarf, which Fatima put on me like a Toureg headdress. All of the group bought something and if I like the products I may send an order with Ray on one of his future visits! 

We trundled on through the now familiar scenery and arrived at the Municipal Campsite at Ouarzazate mid afternoon. It was very hot. We settled into our pitches and didn't do much else. Archie and I were going to eat in one of the suggested restaurants in the town but in the event we had pasta in the van, planning to go into town afterwards but that idea was abandoned too, because time went by, it was too late and we have an early start in the morning. We were kept awake by loud music, possibly local wedding celebrations.

Day 16 Friday April 18

Coffee at Café Annfous

We left the rather smelly camp site of Ouarzazate before 09:00am and drove along winding mountain roads and saw some very spectacular views. It was a long drag up into the mountains of the Moyen Atlas (Middle Atlas) and we were being hampered by the “oil burners” not allowing us to get up a good head of steam on the down slopes so, when they stopped for a break, we decided to continue on and made good time to Café Annfous at about the summit. 

The windy road down through
the Tizi n'Tichka Pass

After coffee it was time to descend through the Tizi n'Tichka Pass. Although it was steep and very twisty the brakes held up well and we were soon back on the reasonably flat plain again.

Windy road down the mountain

We arrived at the Camping Ferodous at about 13:30. Taken by minibus to the Marjane supermarche to pick up supplies and then given a long briefing from Ray as he was leaving the group that evening.

Day 17 Saturday April 19

Open topped bus tour
of Marakech

Taken into Marrakech in the site run mini-bus at 10:00. Took an open-top bus tour of the city then went to explore the Place Jemaa el Fna, “The Sqare of the Dead”, and the souks. Returned to the campsite at 15:00 and dozed for a while. Returned to Marrakech in the evening for dinner at Riad Omar on Passage Prince Moulay Rachid and to see the hustle and bustle of the Place Jemaa el Fna at night.

Jemaa el Fna

Day 18 Sunday April 20

Marakech souks

Taken into Marrakech at 10:00 to visit the “Government Shop” as the Complexe d'Artisanat used to be known and which was absolutely packed with Moroccan produce from marble table tops and sinks to kaftans, tagine's, leather handbags, etc. 

Dinner at Chez Ali

About two hours was spent examining the wonderful wares but it would have taken much more time to see everything that was on offer. After leaving the shop with our purchases it was back to have another look round the Place Jemaa el Fna. The mini-bus returned us to the camp-site at 15:45, a longer than usual trip because of the football match that was on at the stadium down the road. Marrakech was playing bitter rivals Casablanca and the police were gearing up for trouble. They were stopping and checking ID cards and making the young people reduce the numbers on mopeds to four.

Fantasia at Chez Ali

In the evening we went to Chez Ali in the minibus to have dinner and watch the Fantasia. The Fantasia was a show of Berber horsemanship, belly dancing and other entertainment which we all enjoyed

Day 19 Monday April 21

Essaouira in the distance

Beach & Friends Café

Essaouira here we come. A'Hammid travelled with us as Ray had left the group the previous evening to keep a medical appointment. Goats in a tree. Not the nicest of sites, A'Hammid had a bit of a confrontation with the site manager but it all calmed down. We went for a walk along the beach and stopped for a coffee at a beach cafe, Beach & Friends. Horse and camel rides were being given on the beach.

Day 20 Tuesday April 22

Essaouira

Fish stalls at the harbour

We walked into the town, via Beach & Friends, and found that we liked the place, quite relaxed, a change from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech. As usual there were many shops and cafés. We went to the port where the fish was being brought in and sold on the harbour side and in the little port restaurants where you could chose your fish and have it cooked for you there. We didn't stay as Archie found the fishy smell too overpowering so we had lunch in a restaurant away from the harbour. 

Fairwell meal with A'Hammid

We walked back to the site to empty our waste tanks. In the evening all of us except Judy took a taxi into town to meet up with A'Hammid for our last meal together and to say goodbye to him because he was travelling back to his village the following day, catching the 6:00am bus. The restaurant was very nice but the meal was nothing special, afterwards we all went back to the site.

Day 21 Wednesday April 23

Oualidia car park

We said goodbye to John and Judy, who were heading off to find their own way back to Spain, and then set off ourselves at around 10:00am. The route was along the coast road and much of the drive was on very rough roads, shaking and rattling the vans. We couldn't find a site but came across a car park at Oualidia which permitted motor homes to stop overnight for 25Dh (day & night rate because of the time we arrived, so 50Dh) It was pleasant enough, no facilities, of course. Jan, Ian and I went for a walk to look at the lagoon while Archie rested, feeling unwell. We had BBQ that evening although we ate inside as it was blowy and chilly.

Day 22 Thursday April 24

We set off about 10:00am along the coast road but planning to join the N1 as soon as possible at El Jadida. This road was still very rough so we decided to join the motorway toll road at Casablanca. We passed through huge industrial areas, billowing out smoke and dust. 

It was another long day arriving in Mohammedia late afternoon. Took a look at Mimosa camp site but it was too cramped and too many trees so we ventured further along and found Le Ocean Bleu which looked quite good, despite the road in being a dirt road along the edge of the water, so we stopped there for 90Dh a night. There was plenty of room with electric, albeit only 6 Amp, toilets, showers and a washing machine. There was a restaurant just inside the site gate so we ordered tagine for our dinner as it was not very good weather for BBQ, windy and overcast. The site was by the sea and we were lulled to sleep by the sound of breakers crashing on the rocks.

Day 23 Friday April 25

Moulay Bousselham camp site

Leaving Le Ocean Bleu at around 10:00 and heading back to the A3 motorway and Rabat. At Rabat there was a bypass which was pretty rough that connected to the A1 motorway. It was then A1 all the way to Moulay Bousselham, bar the last three or four kilometres on the R406. 

Moulay Bousselham harbour

The site at Moulay Bousselham (80Dh/night) is right on the lagoon and very attractive with grass pitches and shady trees. It was so nice we decided to spend two nights here and visit Assilah, a fishing village about fifty miles up the coast on Saturday. We barbecued steaks for dinner and drank Sangria. Again it was too chilly to eat outside so the four of us ate in Harvey.

Day 24 Saturday April 26

Assilah

The journey to Assilah was done in Ian and Jan's motor-home because it is more economical and would be easier to park when we got there. The medina was easy to find, down by the harbour, and it was very picturesque so we wandered around for a while taking photo's and admiring the wares in the souks then had drinks in a little restaurant. 

Assilah

I ordered some little almond cake things for us which were pretty disgusting. Jan and Ian enjoyed their cakes. Lunch was taken in a restaurant just outside the medina and we all had omelettes of one sort or another. Back at the camp-site Archie and I took it easy at the van while Ian and Jan went off to find a boat trip around the lagoon, which they enjoyed after the initial haranguing by the boat men trying to get their custom.

Day 25 Sunday April 27

The earliest ferry we could get was at four o'clock so it was a leisurely start followed by dumping of tanks and leaving the site at 11:00. We arrived at the port of Tangier-Med in good time, however, it all went downhill from there. Because of problems on the Spanish side the timings had all been shunted around so the 1 o'clock fast ferry became the 4 o'clock fast ferry instead of the 4 o'clock slow ferry and the 7 o'clock fast ferry then became the slow ferry. Ian and Jan booked onto the now 4 o'clock fast ferry and, as Harvey is too big for the fast ferry, we had to book onto the 7 o'clock slow ferry (are you still following this??!!). Anyway, we subsequently found out that the 4 o'clock fast ferry, which Ian and Jan were, on didn't leave till 6:30pm and our 7 o'clock slow ferry left at 10:15pm. Ian and Jan arrived at our villa about 10:30pm and we rolled up about 3:00am, absolutely exhausted, and so to bed....

Footnote Monday 8 June 2020
I would recommend a trip to Morocco to everyone, it is an amazing country and the people are so friendly. It was a really great adventure and we could say that we have been to Africa and seen the Sahara desert. Shortly after our trip we returned to the UK and sold Harvey but we always have really great memories of our tour in it. We continued to live in Spain and in 2015 we bought a new van, slightly smaller and European, in order to continue exploring so the blog may continue.